A reason why you should buy the coin and not the slab
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Here's a link to how to post a topic with images in our community https://coinauctionshelp.com/welcome-to ... community/
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You also agree to follow these guidelines. You must agree to these rules to be a member of this forum. NO SPAM! Spam is deleted within minutes, no spam will ever be left in our community.
1. Post a front and back image of your coin with a specific question about what you’re seeing or asking about and one coin per topic.
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3. Images should be taken by a camera or cell phone camera, we ask that members don’t use images through a microscope screen.
4. Always start your own topic, please don’t ask about your coin or post your coin in someone else’s coin topic.
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6. No spam. Do not post any links to your coin or other non-coin websites.
7. Always be respectful even if something makes you upset or you don’t agree with a member. You can always get a second opinion elsewhere. If you have an issue then politely ask an admin in an PM. PM’s are for issues, technical and personal, but not for coin questions (refer to number 5 on this list). Our community is not a soap box for complaining or drama, so please refrain from doing so here.[/size]
A reason why you should buy the coin and not the slab
Got this in a recent Heritage Auction. One other bidder spotted the glowing error (NOT the grade) on the PCGS tag so I had to pay dearly. It is the rarest combo of all the 1891 cents SDSL Obv 2. And they have it labeled as the most common one - LDLL. There are six significant varieties.
- SensibleSal66
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Re: A reason why you should buy the coin and not the slab
I actually look at both. Especially with companies like ANACS .
Member of CONECA
" All replies are my opinion based on experience"
Casual Collector 40+ years , 10 years Error coins ( still learning).
" All replies are my opinion based on experience"
Casual Collector 40+ years , 10 years Error coins ( still learning).
- Daniel
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Re: A reason why you should buy the coin and not the slab
But would you have bought this particular coin if it wasn't in the slab?
Re: A reason why you should buy the coin and not the slab
Absolutely. I only had a circulated example of this coin and wanted a MS one. Of the six varieties of the 1891, this is considered the rarest with less than 5% of total mintage.
- Amishjedi
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Re: A reason why you should buy the coin and not the slab
Speaking from a "weekend novice" perspective and not as an experienced numismatic, I am forced to rely on ONLY purchasing slabbed coins - there seems to be so many fakes/replicas out there (and overall shady people, in general) taking advantage of newer collectors. I try to save for higher-value pieces in my collection, so I can't take any chances on wasting my money or getting taken for a ride. That is why I appreciate Daniel's videos and his attitude toward respecting the business - refreshing to hear the truth. I wish there was an LCD that I trusted close by, but for now I rely on my own research, and forums like this one to try and educate myself.
Struggling to arrive at a current, fair value for what a particular coin is worth is maddening sometimes. I find myself asking is there *really* that much of a visual difference between an MS64 and an MS65 to justify spending the extra $300 - $800? Sorry for the rant - appreciate finding this Site, the resident veterans and Daniel's videos - very helpful.
Struggling to arrive at a current, fair value for what a particular coin is worth is maddening sometimes. I find myself asking is there *really* that much of a visual difference between an MS64 and an MS65 to justify spending the extra $300 - $800? Sorry for the rant - appreciate finding this Site, the resident veterans and Daniel's videos - very helpful.
“The Ability To Speak Does Not Make You Intelligent.” - Qui Gon Jinn
braggin rights
ANACS kinda started this whole thing. But back then it was only to authenticate, not to grade. I used ANACS back when I wanted to make sure a gold $10 Indian of mine was legit. (It was). No slabs back then - just a photo. So I have no problem with getting something authenticated. But as you can see from my example, PCGS and others don't always get that correct.
But for somebody to pay thousands of dollars for a common date Lincoln cent just because a little sticker says MS68RD makes no sense to me. I bet I can show you many examples where a lower "graded" coin looks better than one they graded a point or two higher. If you cannot see the difference between a MS67 and a MS68 why would you pay ten times more? The Registry is a great marketing ploy by TPGs to have collectors duke it out to be number one on a list. Me, I want to catch a bigger fish than you, not be number one on a Registry list.
But for somebody to pay thousands of dollars for a common date Lincoln cent just because a little sticker says MS68RD makes no sense to me. I bet I can show you many examples where a lower "graded" coin looks better than one they graded a point or two higher. If you cannot see the difference between a MS67 and a MS68 why would you pay ten times more? The Registry is a great marketing ploy by TPGs to have collectors duke it out to be number one on a list. Me, I want to catch a bigger fish than you, not be number one on a Registry list.
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Re: A reason why you should buy the coin and not the slab
When I personally say to buy the coin and not the slab, the meaning behind that is to check the coin itself to make sure its worthy of what is on the slab. You can find damaged MS70 coins in slabs without having to look too hard. Yet some people just go ahead and pay for what the label says b/c a TPG printed the label. Buy it if you like the coin itself - don't evaluate the coin ONLY on what is printed on the label.Amishjedi wrote: ↑Wed Oct 14, 2020 11:32 am Speaking from a "weekend novice" perspective and not as an experienced numismatic, I am forced to rely on ONLY purchasing slabbed coins - there seems to be so many fakes/replicas out there (and overall shady people, in general) taking advantage of newer collectors.
Edited to add...or buy from Daniel or someone else you know you can trust!
It is good you have struggled with this b/c they are absolutely NOT worth the extra. The proof of this is that if you break the coin out and resubmit it even to the same company, there is never a guarantee of the same grade again. The values assigned are totally artificial b/c of this fact. This is why people resubmit coins until they get the higher grade - if the difference in alleged value is thousands more.Struggling to arrive at a current, fair value for what a particular coin is worth is maddening sometimes. I find myself asking is there *really* that much of a visual difference between an MS64 and an MS65 to justify spending the extra $300 - $800? Sorry for the rant - appreciate finding this Site, the resident veterans and Daniel's videos - very helpful.
And...the companies openly advertise grading is subjective. They know its not a science and openly proclaim coin grading is an art...and then proceed to do things like make registry sets so competition increases amongst collectors and people WILL pay the extra (sometime huge) dollar amounts for that one point better grade.
Common grading company shortcomings & resulting co$tly mi$take$ to collectors (using Kennedy No FG halves):
https://tinyurl.com/y7rksxu8
How much squash would a sasquatch squash if a sasquatch would squash squash?
https://tinyurl.com/y7rksxu8
How much squash would a sasquatch squash if a sasquatch would squash squash?
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