1963 25c - please confirm DDR, RPM

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Califalex
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1963 25c - please confirm DDR, RPM

#1 Unread post by Califalex »

Have researched extensively. Variety Vista offered best match. Please confirm DDR on second S (states) and O (of). Described as DDR 001 Xref Coneca 1-R - VIII.
Also, please check RPM - SEEMS to match photo for this year/mint as RPM=002. Unfortunately PCGS does not list this variety in their price guide, so I don't know whether to grade or auction eBay.
This coin is a low grade - estimated it around AU 50 via Photograde.
Can you help please?
1963 D OBV.jpg
1963 D REV.jpg
1963 D DDR 001.jpg
1963 D RPM 002.jpg

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Re: 1963 25c - please confirm DDR, RPM

#2 Unread post by Paul »

Can you post a close-up image of the number 6 in the date please?
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Re: 1963 25c - please confirm DDR, RPM

#3 Unread post by Earle42 »

1. The S and F in the REV do appear to be a match for the DDR-001. However, I believe the mint mark is just machine doubling.

2. Not all doubled die coins are sold for high prices. The cost to have this item slabbed would be way more expensive than the coin would ever bring when sold. In fact that is the case with likely most of the coins you will encounter. Realize that PCHS slabbing also requires you pay for a membership. If you want them to put an attribution on a slab's label, you also have to pay them to do that also.

3. Check eBay SOLD prices on the coin you are thinking of slabbing and selling on eBay to get an idea of actual market value so you can tell if you will lose money getting a coin slabbed.

Side note: as an eye opener to how badly a job they do with attributions, please read the PDF file attached in my signature. It will open your eyes to the lack of expertise, despite the masses thinking otherwise, at these companies. Also, a slabbed coin broken out and resubmitted to the same company is never even guaranteed the same grade again! There is no science to it!

Please watch Daniel's videos on whether or not to have a coin slabbed. Most of the time, without a LOT more education and time spent researching, you will lose money having it done. MANY people learn the hard way.

Mint mark:
Click to enlarge
Click to enlarge
Click to enlarge
Click to enlarge
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Common grading company shortcomings & resulting co$tly mi$take$ to collectors (using Kennedy No FG halves):
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Re: 1963 25c - please confirm DDR, RPM

#4 Unread post by Califalex »

1963 mag 2.jpg
Paul wrote: Wed Aug 04, 2021 10:19 am Can you post a close-up image of the number 6 in the date please?
Hi Paul - I think I see what you were after..

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Re: 1963 25c - please confirm DDR, RPM

#5 Unread post by Califalex »

Earle42 wrote: Wed Aug 04, 2021 11:10 am 1. The S and F in the REV do appear to be a match for the DDR-001. However, I believe the mint mark is just machine doubling.

2. Not all doubled die coins are sold for high prices. The cost to have this item slabbed would be way more expensive than the coin would ever bring when sold. In fact that is the case with likely most of the coins you will encounter. Realize that PCHS slabbing also requires you pay for a membership. If you want them to put an attribution on a slab's label, you also have to pay them to do that also.

3. Check eBay SOLD prices on the coin you are thinking of slabbing and selling on eBay to get an idea of actual market value so you can tell if you will lose money getting a coin slabbed.

Side note: as an eye opener to how badly a job they do with attributions, please read the PDF file attached in my signature. It will open your eyes to the lack of expertise, despite the masses thinking otherwise, at these companies. Also, a slabbed coin broken out and resubmitted to the same company is never even guaranteed the same grade again! There is no science to it!

Please watch Daniel's videos on whether or not to have a coin slabbed. Most of the time, without a LOT more education and time spent researching, you will lose money having it done. MANY people learn the hard way.

Mint mark:
MD_Use_May2021.jp
MD-Graphic_2.jpg
Hi Earle - Thanks for the images - saved and will study further - still taking baby-steps. Emphasis on "baby". Takes forever for me to ID varieties. I have about 50 1964's to go through from my "hoard". Because of the wear, difficult to ID Type C on reverse, etc. Any advice to speed up process would be great!
As for your response -
1. Still concerned that it may be MD and don't want to misrepresent.
2. Aware and agree! I have a bunch of coins that are in my "Grade ?" stack.
3. Forgot to do this - thanks for reminder!
Side note - understand and agree with final statement. Have watched Daniel's videos re this topic and learned a lot which is why I have "the stack".
As always, thanks a ton for feedback!!

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Re: 1963 25c - please confirm DDR, RPM

#6 Unread post by Paul »

This appears to be a Stage B 1963-D DDR-001, 1-R-VIII ... Using your images posted here for attribution
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Re: 1963 25c - please confirm DDR, RPM

#7 Unread post by Earle42 »

I have about 50 1964's to go through from my "hoard". Because of the wear, difficult to ID Type C on reverse, etc. Any advice to speed up process would be great!
I know what you mean! I did this with a bunch also.
I also know every site I see has people looking at the arrows and spacing between the leaf and A at the bottom. To me this is the hard and confusing way.

Two main points to look at:
1. The E and S in STATES at the top: The terminating end of the bottom bar of the E and the terminating end of the S's lower curve is important.
2. The tail feathers (for some reason this obvious marker is mostly overlooked ID guides I have seen?!) and how well defined the details of them are.


Type A: No ES spacing and weak tail feathers
Washington_TypeA.jpg

Type B: The only type with a decent space between ES (think, can an ant crawl through there? If yes, Type B)
ES space - decent tail feather definition
ES space - decent tail feather definition
Type C: Tiny ES space but very well defined tail feathers.
No ES space - VERY well defined tailfeathers
No ES space - VERY well defined tailfeathers
Procedure:
Step 1: Is there a space between ES?
If Yes: Done...Type B

If No:
Check tail feathers
weakly defined: Type A
very well detailed: Type C (you will know when you see these the first time!)

Another point to remember is once you find a Type B, put it beside a type A first (most are type A). Study intently the obvious attention to detail in the Type B as compared to the Type A. When you do this, you will likely get to the point of easily spotting a Type B without having to check the ES spacing.

Then sometime time you will find a well defined piece that has no spacing...welcome to Type C :)

There are other pick up points as mentioned...but these are the ones that made it easy for me.
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Common grading company shortcomings & resulting co$tly mi$take$ to collectors (using Kennedy No FG halves):
https://tinyurl.com/y7rksxu8

How much squash would a sasquatch squash if a sasquatch would squash squash?

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Re: 1963 25c - please confirm DDR, RPM

#8 Unread post by Califalex »

Paul wrote: Wed Aug 04, 2021 4:38 pm This appears to be a Stage B 1963-D DDR-001, 1-R-VIII ... Using your images posted here for attribution
Many thanks Paul!
As I only started seriously looking at coins in January, I am a virtual "babe in the woods". Not sure what the attribution does but I'm grateful if it helps others.

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